LAB should be super saturated with brown sugar for storage just the whey and sugar ….it looks as if you have added the lab and molasses to water by doing this you are activating the solution for its ready to use state and it does not last long before other microbes like yeast n molds move in feeding on the sugar and water ….it can still be used theres not a bunch of molds you can either skim off the mold or mix it in the LAB should overpower anything you mix into the liquid but use it up before it does go really bad on you…. for long term storage the best way is to super saturate it by adding the dry sugar we lock up all the water and put the microbes into a type of hibernation then when we add the solution to water it brings the microbes back to action …check out this vid from drake on how to super saturate https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vcji0fNt5f0
- dagoofman answered 2 years ago
I have seen soy amino acids on the market being sold as a vegan replacement for fish aminos ….in theory a KNF Food (FPJ) made of a plant high in aminos like soy might work as a replacement for KNF Fuel (FAA)… i have no idea the amount that would be used that would be fully experimental … KNF Sweet Food (FFJ) should supply all the P & K that the plant needs along with KNF Structure (WCAP) but it never hurts to add a lil dolomite lime to the soil … we also have to always remember that KNF is a system as a whole and other parts of the system help to fill in holes from another its like a orchestra if some instruments are missing it may still sound good but its at its best if all the instruments are there
Happy Experimenting
- dagoofman answered 2 years ago
- last active 2 years ago
All KNF solutions can go bad this is why its taught ( The nose knows! ) if it smells bad then it has gone bad …LAB has one of the shortest shelf life’s in KNF its only recommended to store it for about 1 year if not refrigerated …i make LAB a few times a season cause its so simple to make ..i try not to make too much and try to use whatever’s left over in the house over the winter to clean or take some LAB baths ( great for your skin and helps healing minor skin wounds ) i probably use LAB just as much for personal use as i do out in the garden
- dagoofman answered 2 years ago
No … porous vessels are not advised in storing or fermenting of KNF inputs … when making inputs we are drawing out the liquids in the plants through osmotic pressure and fermentation then binding the liquids with sugar for preservation by using a porous vessel this allows the liquids to seep into the walls of the vessel and evaporate this is why un-glazed pots are used in dry hot climates it creates evaporative cooling to keep the soil cool in the pot …. any non-porous vessel can be used glass or glazed stoneware is best for fermentation and storage … i do use recycled food plastics for storage (mostly coffee creamer bottles) and food grade plastics can be used for fermentation although its not the best choice but it does work just fine my favorite way to make inputs is in mason jars the jar rings make for a simple way to get a cloth/paper top (i use paper coffee filters) on the vessel so it gets the proper breathability for the fermentation process
Happy Experimenting
- dagoofman answered 2 years ago
i would guess the answer to the question is …what amino acids are in fish? ….if left long enough to ferment the whole fish can turn to liquid
- dagoofman answered 2 years ago
the best way to start is by getting the microbes in the ground, JMS to get the the microbes deep in the soil, IMO4 (just under the mulch layer) for surface microbes and treat with Soil Prep Formula …Some other things we can do …treat with KNF Soil Prep Formula …plant cover crops for natural tillage and green manure …compost treated with LIMO and other KNF Solutions is a great soil amendment …KNF treated Bio Char is among one of the best things we can add to any soil …worm castings is another great soil additive …composted animal manure (from a good source) …if we are dealing with really heavy clay soil adding some compost along with a bit of coco coir and/or peat moss and some dolomite lime, giving a light till to the soil just 1 time to help get it all mixed up and break up the clay …its all about getting that organic materiel in the soil so the microbes have a place to live and food to eat (if you build it they will come)
May the Force be with You along your Journey
- dagoofman answered 1 year ago
This is from the book — Close the lid and leave under the sun for culturing. Place it in the same environmental condition as the crops. Leave it at ambient temperature. It takes 1-3 days till completion. It is faster, and there are more foam in summer. If water temperature drops below 18°C (64.4°F), use an electric heater to keep at 20°C (68°F) and wrap the container with insulation. (If you use cold underground water, take out the water and leave for a day for it to warm before use.) —
I think this is really dependent on volume of JMS we are making ….in the book he says 500L (132g) is the volume that he is doing and to warm that much water up sitting in the sun after it has gotten really cold is not easy so by putting a heater in there to keep it warm on cold nights so that the temp does not drop so much is important to brewing a good batch of microbes ….but if we are making a smaller batch ie: in my case i make 3 gallons (11L) of JMS for my garden cause it gets mixed at a 10-1 ratio with water so in the end i have 30 gallons (113L) to drench my garden with …so in that case i dont use a heater cause the sun warms up that small volume of water just fine after a cold night … in early spring or late fall it will take up to 5-6 days to be ready instead of 3-4 as it does in the summer …i would think that up to about a 55 gallon (208L) drum sitting out in the sun would not need a heater and would heat just fine in the sun and even better if it was black in color for a bit more passive solar heating
- dagoofman answered 1 year ago
Soil Drench Formula
Food/FPJ 1:500
Cleanser/BRV 1:500
Medicine/OHN 1:1000
Structure/WCAP 1:1000
Protectors/LAB 1:1000
Sea Water 1:20
adding microbes IMO/LIMO/JMS and doing a 1 time till or forking to help breakup the compaction …could also add organic matter to help break up the soil during forking or tilling …if the soil is just really bad consider something like a lasagna garden or a hügelkultur to start and allow the life to move down into the harsh soil and improve it
Happy Experimenting
- dagoofman answered 1 year ago
It sounds to me the big thing here is soil PH being that blueberry’s like very acidic soil ….there’s some things we can try …the soil acidifier is a good addition, we could also use coffee water at the start of the season to lower PH and add some nitrogen to the soil, can also try adding a organic fertilizer blend made for acid loving plants at the end of the season (there’s no rule we cant add whatever we want to the soil), the hard part here is that the soil life wants to always bring the PH to neutral so in a way we have to fight it each year but still maintain a balance in soil health ….to make the coffee water (which is my go to for blueberry’s each year) we just add some cheep coffee grounds into our watering can (as if we where making weak coffee to drink) and let it sit for a wile to steep then water our berries with it, coffee is acidic about a 6 and lowers the PH of the soil really well to help the blueberries flower and fruit during the season, the coffee grounds also add a bit of nitrogen to the soil …i’v been doing this coffee method to my berries for a couple years, mine are also in pots so i can control the soil PH and soil mix a lil better for them, doing this along with using KNF methods has had good results for me
Happy Experimenting
- dagoofman answered 1 year ago
Spraying weekly with protectors (LAB) will help the fungus not set in …the lacto get in the pores of the leaves and take up the space needed for the fungus to set in reducing the leaf curl and allowing the tree to grow stronger to fight off the intruders …IMOs can also help ,by introducing strong beneficial microbes around the tree we allow the tree to become stronger and healthier helping to prevent the leaf curl JS Jadam Sulfur is a fungicide but should only be used as a last resort
- dagoofman answered 10 months ago