All Answers

Thank you. I bought a bag of oyster shells for making wca since it’s faster then collecting enough egg shells. Gonna give this a try. Strawberries are already starting to flower and fruit. Would have made it ahead of time but had to leave town for a couple weeks and just got back Friday. 🙂

grass clipping r not the best thing for a FPJ they would be used more for a JLF …FPJ is more 1 plant type the microbes that live on that plant help in the breakdown process of the plant in the FPJ to get the micronation that we r looking for …grass clippings contain many different types of plants that make up a “lawn” when using multi plants in a FPJ the microbes compete as to who will break down the plant matter some win some lose and the full ferment process doesn’t kick off right and we r left with un desired results …as to the JLF we add microbes and water and a touch of salt to the clippings this adds more diversity to the pool a set of microbes that do break down everything in a large pool of water where they have plenty of room to move around this creates the environment to break down many things …FPJs are more about harvesting the hormones in a single plant and adding them as part of the complete solutions they r less of a fertilizer then as many think to where JLF is a fertilizer

how to FPJ from one of the Cho books i have

Collect the plant material. Growing tips that are easy to
snap off with your fingers are best. Do not use tough or
woody parts. Use only one type of plant at a time; do not
mix different plants in the same container.

Shake off dirt but do not wash the plant material. Tear
the plant into two- to four-inch pieces; do not cut it
with a knife. This is to increase the surface area and
promote osmotic pressure.
Measure the weight of the plant material collected.
Measure an equal weight of brown sugar. Use 1/3 to ½
of the brown sugar to toss with the plant material to
coat each piece with the sugar.
Layer the sugar-coated plant material with the
remaining brown sugar and compress each layer with
your fist in your fermentation container. Save some of
the brown sugar to put a ½ inch sugar cap and press
down. Jar should be ¾ full. After fermenting, the
material will be 2/3 of the jar.
Label the container with the date and type of plant.
Cover the container with breathable paper and tie
securely. Place the jar in a cool and shady area. Do
not move, open, or stir the ingredients during the
fermentation period. It will take about one week.

Happy Experimenting

if i remember i think drake was talking about maintenance solution and suz was also talking about it on that episode if so it is OHN,BRV,FPJ,WCAP ….LAB i would think might help also

the squash fruit not forming is probably lack of pollination u can hand pollinate the female flowers from the male flowers, the females will be the flowers with lil fruits behind them, u can just get a cotton swab or paint brush collect some of the pollen from the male and rub in into the center of a female flower as for the fungus gnats theres a few things u can do, most of the time they show up from overly wet soil and its the larva in the soil that needs to be controlled, u can allow the top couple inches to dry out for a few days with the lack of water the larva will die back and reduce the numbers can also add a think layer of mulch to the top of the soil this helps to prevent the newly hatched flys not be able to fly away and they die off also most larva breath through there skin so a dose of JWA in the soil will coat the larva in soap and help kill back the numbers IF u must use a store product to get rid of them mosquito bits is what iv seen lots of people on youtube using just search for the vids, i would do the mulch it has 2 main benefits for u with the squash it will help with the gnats but it will also help with soil born funguses like downy mildew and powdery mildew by preventing the soil from being splashed up onto the plants, to help with the current downy mildew remove the infected leaves then treat the plants with protectors (LAB) once a week to help prevent the spread

The specific barn I have is a prefab building. The floor is what matter and it is described here in this University of Hawaii document on Inoculated Deep Litter Systems.

If you have a solid IMO2 collection then I don’t see much of an issue with using a small finger full of that into the amount of water you are adding to the feed especially if you are adding Cleanser(vinegar), Medicine(OHN), Food(FPJ) and Protectors(LAB). If you want to be cautious then add Cleanser, Medicine Food and Protectors to the water and moisten your feed for now while you head towards IMO4.

check out this video from Drake https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=be-9h-D8sPw

Thank you. I ment to say OHN in bulk. Any help would be appreciated

I have a failure to communicate. Thank you for your efforts.
Regards

dilution is 1 to 500

no need for breathable lid for storage

just adding sugar water to a mother in theory it should be ok but not advised vinegar is made from  alcohol so by using pre fermented food (FPJ) u r a step ahead on the conversion process (shorter time to convert to alcohol then to vinegar) it is also not advised to use white vinegar as KNF cleanser (BRV) and that is what u would be making with just sugar water if u wanted to pasteurize the white vinegar and use it to make structure (WCAP) and reproduction (WCA) that would work great but for a cleanser (BRV) it is best to use a living fruit vinegar the main reason is the micronation of the P, K and other nutrients that occurs through the full fermentation process along with the living microbes

if your asking can i run it again (as in the food) id say no u have all ready spent that food, converted all its sugars pulled all its nutes put it through a full fermentation process and its ready to break down and return to the soil at that point u would get best results using a new food each time

Happy Experimenting