https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-QPs-r2uH0 heres a vid from drake
- dagoofman answered 4 years ago
i want to say yes but no in the book i have it dont say leave 1/3 air but does show a air gap at the top of the jar so id say yes 2/3 1/3 does apply as in most KNF but i also see in vids much larger air spaces in chris trumps IMOs meaning as u use it u dont put it in a new jar to keep the 1/3 air constant so no its not needed per say…. i would suspect it dried out from being kept to warm or there was such a thin layer it did dry out or the starting rice moisture content was to low… IMO is the hardest part of KNF iv been trying to get the perfect collection for a couple yrs but theres always something off and i just end up using it all by the end of the season cause its just not worth keeping long term but i will say i do make some dame good compost with it all lots of funguys
Happy Experimenting
- dagoofman answered 4 years ago
from the book …..u would put the IMO4 back in the bags
How to store IMO-3
Keep the IMO3 bags in shaded and cool place. Make sure that
the air is well circulated by keeping IMO-3 in a ventilated
container such as jute / gunny / cloth bags.
First, spread rice straw or leaf litter at the bottom of the
container, and put in IMO-3. During storage, the IMO-3 may
become dry (moisture level 20-30%) as the moisture gets
evaporated. It means that the IMOs have entered a sleeping
phase (state of dormancy). Pile up containers into 3 layers and
shield them from direct sunlight and rain. At this point, there
is no need to turn over, because of the convection currents that
are created through the gaps of containers.
HOW TO STORE IMO- 4
Moisture may be evaporated during storage. So adjust the
moisture content to 65-70% by adding nutrient liquids of
natural farming inputs just before using IMO-4.
- dagoofman answered 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
How to culture microorganisms in winter: If the temperature of the
water drops below 18℃ (64.4℉), you need to use heating and insulation.
Pick a spot less affected by wind – inside a greenhouse is excellent – and be
sure to wrap the container tightly with insulation on all sides (bottom, side
and top). If the temperature is kept at 25℃ (77℉), foam will be vigorous;
but if you want to culture microbes that are active in low temperature, grow
them at 20℃ (68℉). At 20℃ (68℉), microbes that survive sub-zero temperatures (below 32℉) will propagate as well. JMS will completely change
the shape of your farming.
Foliar application of JMS: JMS can be applied on soil or leaves. If you
spray JMS regularly on the leaves and branches, microbial diversity will be
maintained on the plants and this prevents a particular pathogen dominating. Caution is needed so that the solution does not leave marks on the
plant. Spray marks left particularly on the fruits are a serious problem.
When applying on the leaves, take extra caution to filter the JMS thoroughly. Use something finer than a fine net, such as fabric. Also, before application, you must mix the solution with JADAM wetting agent. JADAM
wetting agent (JWA) coats the target evenly and helps in leaving no marks.
For 500 L (132 gal), use 20 L (5.3 gal) of JMS and over 3 L (0.8 gal) of
JADAM agent. You can add JADAM herb solution (JHS) or JADAM liquid fertilizer (JLF). Take care to filter when using JADAM liquid fertilizer
made from JADAM herb solution, water and leaf mold. is is a pesticide,
nutrient and fertilizer. For 500 L (132 gal), if you use more than 20 L (5.3
gal) of JMS, JADAM wetting agent will become less effective. JADAM
wetting agent is easily broken down by microorganisms. For foliar application, always use water that passed JADAM wetting agent test (explained
later). e method of using indigenous microorganisms from the local leaf
mold was developed by Hankyu Cho. It was a big hit in and abroad.
JADAM’s method is a result of years of effort to make this method easier
and more effective.
as for the salt u can add i think its up to 40% salt to brown sugar for FPJ but not pure salt that is to much sodium and will kill the ground if brown sugar is to much to buy right now id start using JLF instead no sugar needed just a lil sea salt same as JMS and if u r making JMS already the switch to JLF from FPJ is super easy
- dagoofman answered 4 years ago
yes in time the soil drenching w/JMS and IMOs well fix the issue i would recommend deep tilling 1 time if you can before the soaks or short after you start the soaks id also try to till in organic materiel any and as much as you can at that time to improve the soil deep tilling the 1 time in the beginning is not going to hurt the soil that much cause you are going to be adding tons of life back into the soil to improve it , cover cropping during this time of adding JMS and IMOs will also help with soil compaction and help fix nitrogen into the soil and build microbes those cover crops can be chop n dropped or turned into JLF or both id go with a basic cover crop seed mix its stuff like clover, vetch, dikons, winter rye, snow peas, and other stuff, sorghum sudan grass is another good one to add to that mix by cover cropping you are adding roots and plant life to the soil for the microbes and improving the soil health, adding bio char and IMO4 along with the JMS you will attack the problem at both ends so to say the JMS goes deep into the soil adding life below wile the IMO4 sits on top of the soil adding life from above you could also do liquid IMO3, JMS and liquid IMO3 can be added through watering systems for ease of use if you have large property to contend with, adding KNF soil soak drenches is also a good addition during this process… i think if you went this route within 1 yr the land will be ready to plant out and you will start with really good soil and continuing to add JMS and IMO4 and following along with natural farming methods within just a few yrs you will have turned your soil into something amazing
Happy Experimenting
- dagoofman answered 4 years ago
for the to much vinegar just add more bones to it see if it starts to bubble again if it does then yes to much vinegar but by adding more bones you fix that problem just keep dropping bits of bone in every few days when it stops reacting you are done
for the mother it is not recommended to use live vinegars when making WCA or WCAP all you are looking for is the acids to break down the shells n bones Drake has said he uses just white distilled vinegar i use ACV its pretty cheap here where i live if you use your live vinegars they should be pasteurized i dont know the exact reason behind this but i would guess it has to do with potency and shelf life you would not want your mother eating all the dissolved calcium you just put in there
the white film on top could also be a yeast in the air eating oil residue or something from the bones not a big deal just stir it up they will die in the high acid environment (iv had this happen before)
- dagoofman answered 3 years ago
the best advice here is in KNF there is a leeway of about 40% plus or minus where you are still doing the right thing so a spray that one person might use could be different then another’s and from what iv learned watching master cho talk about the feeds n sprays they are tailored to what that plant needs right then and the basic sprays are just a guide line to follow i know drake has a OG book from master cho id love to look at and see how the sprays have changed and evolved over the yrs
theres also this book not sure if you have looked into it (not one i have yet)
- dagoofman answered 3 years ago
for IMO3 you want about a 50/50 mix of carbs n carbon ie: a grain is high in carbs and its husk/hull is high in carbon ….from what im reading a moringa seed is high in amino acids, vitamins and minerals not high in carb this looks to me a better fit in some IMO5 (The moringa seed oil has vitamins and minerals with essential amino acids in an abundant amount.) IMO3 is giving the microbes the perfect place to propagate plenty of carbs for food and plenty of carbon for living space… IMO5 is a nutrient rich ” fertilizer ” used to top dress to add microbes and nutrients to soil.. it looks to me the best use of moringa in KNF would be FPJ there is tons of good stuff in moringa leaves and FPJ would bring all the best parts out… JLF would be another great use …drying and grinding the seed/pod to add to IMO5 even sprouting the seed to unlock enzymes before drying and grinding creating your own moringa seed meal… iv also seen on the youtube people will grow it just to use as a chop n drop
- dagoofman answered 3 years ago
for question 1 : soil solution is a soil drenched solution used before planting and after harvest to help amend the soil and feed microbes
as for question 2 a good place to start is with this book https://naturalfarminghawaii.net/product/mini-book-soil-foundation-formula-and-plant-growth-cycle-formula/ its about $4 USD there are also a few free resources there too that are great
…. i personally use them through fertigation methods using a hose end sprayer i spray it on the plants on the soil in the walkways on the compost pile i spray it everywhere
- dagoofman answered 3 years ago
yes …i went with average salinity of the ocean to make my SW out of sea90 ….3.5% salinity that is 33g per QT of water
- dagoofman answered 3 years ago