Posts by dagoofman

the best advice here is in KNF there is a leeway of about 40% plus or minus where you are still doing the right thing  so a spray that one person might use could be different then another’s and from what iv learned watching master cho talk about the feeds n sprays they are tailored to what that plant needs right then and the basic sprays are just a guide line to follow i know drake has a OG book from master cho id love to look at and see how the sprays have changed and evolved over the yrs

theres also this  book not sure if you have looked into it (not one i have yet)

https://choglobalnaturalfarminghawaii.org/

for IMO3 you want about a 50/50 mix of carbs n carbon ie: a grain is high in carbs and its husk/hull is high in carbon ….from what im reading a moringa seed is high in amino acids, vitamins and minerals not high in carb this looks to me a better fit in some IMO5 (The moringa seed oil has vitamins and minerals with essential amino acids in an abundant amount.) IMO3 is giving the microbes the perfect place to propagate plenty of carbs for food and plenty of carbon for living space… IMO5 is a nutrient rich ” fertilizer ” used to top dress to add microbes and nutrients to soil.. it looks to me the best use of moringa in KNF would be FPJ there is tons of good stuff in moringa leaves and FPJ would bring all the best parts out… JLF would be another great use …drying and grinding the seed/pod to add to IMO5 even sprouting the seed to unlock enzymes before drying and grinding creating your own moringa seed meal… iv also seen on the youtube people will grow it just to use as a chop n drop

for question 1 : soil solution is a soil drenched solution used before planting and after harvest to help amend the soil and feed microbes

as for question 2 a good place to start is with this book https://naturalfarminghawaii.net/product/mini-book-soil-foundation-formula-and-plant-growth-cycle-formula/ its about $4 USD there are also a few free resources there too that are great

…. i personally use them through fertigation methods using a hose end sprayer i spray it on the plants on the soil in the walkways on the compost pile i spray it everywhere

yes …i went with average salinity of the ocean to make my SW out of sea90 ….3.5% salinity  that is 33g per QT of water

Lipids – fats, oils, waxes, insoluble things in the fish as they cool or sit they get hard making it thicker

IMO3 is 50/50 carbon and carbs of any sort IE: drake has done wood chips (carbon) and dog food (carbs) go to your local feed store see what u can get thats cheep rolled/crimped oats, mill run, char, wood chips whatever u can get that meets the 50/50 mix

all the things u said r great theres no reason u cant add whatever u want to the soil remember gardening is never 1 way to do anything and the best way to garden is what works for u maybe your a double dig person maybe your a ruth stout it doesn’t matter if your happy doing it and u get results good or bad its all lesson learnt —–the difference between the master and the student is that the master has failed more times then the student has even tried—– never be scared to try something new in your garden (test small)

Happy Experimenting

it can have a bit of a funky smell but its never been like OMG that stinks (now JLF smells bad like really bad dont get that stuff on your skin u will smell it for days) i would think if your JMS has gone that funky u left it to long and it has gone beyond the optimal point of use to just being a bucket of putrid anaerobes i would just try again and check on it sooner and right as the bubble rings start to form u would want to use it within about 18 hrs or so for peak usage if u live in a warm area this might only take 1 day to start if u live in a cold area it might take 3 days (like mine do in spring) same with usage if u live in a warm area u might want to use it within 8-12 hrs or so cause its gonna peak faster –also just a note to keep a eye out when gathering soil in the woods cause iv done this if u happen to pickup a fuzzy racoon turd and use it in your JMS it can smell a bit like poop– its always best to use JMS sooner then later it is super easy and cheep to make and u can just make more if u think u need to ……as for the current stuff u have u might dump it on your compost im sure it would be fine with heat and time all the bad juju that might have formed in there will die and be taken over by the good microbes but i would just dump it in the weeds away from my garden so i dident have to smell it and just let nature take care of it

u would chop small mix with carbon and i mean small the more surface area u can get the better could even run them through a grater if u had one and had the time or a food processor to get it small what ever u can …..my question to this would be par cooked or not i would think par cooked it would release more starches n sugars to be available for the IMOs and soften the flesh a bit but maybe it would be unneeded (wouldn’t hurt to do a lil test there see whats better) …i would think the real key here to using these as carbs is the size the smaller the better u would not want large chunks that can just rot in the IMOs but more like shredded so theres not only more availability of the starches n sugars to the microbes but also a less likely to rot situation IMO3 should not be “wet” a lil damp not dry cause water is life and tubers have a lot of water in them so does the plantain so that would be the thing i would take into consideration the most is controlling the moisture when using these as carb source