Posts by dagoofman

Lipids – fats, oils, waxes, insoluble things in the fish as they cool or sit they get hard making it thicker

IMO3 is 50/50 carbon and carbs of any sort IE: drake has done wood chips (carbon) and dog food (carbs) go to your local feed store see what u can get thats cheep rolled/crimped oats, mill run, char, wood chips whatever u can get that meets the 50/50 mix

all the things u said r great theres no reason u cant add whatever u want to the soil remember gardening is never 1 way to do anything and the best way to garden is what works for u maybe your a double dig person maybe your a ruth stout it doesn’t matter if your happy doing it and u get results good or bad its all lesson learnt —–the difference between the master and the student is that the master has failed more times then the student has even tried—– never be scared to try something new in your garden (test small)

Happy Experimenting

it can have a bit of a funky smell but its never been like OMG that stinks (now JLF smells bad like really bad dont get that stuff on your skin u will smell it for days) i would think if your JMS has gone that funky u left it to long and it has gone beyond the optimal point of use to just being a bucket of putrid anaerobes i would just try again and check on it sooner and right as the bubble rings start to form u would want to use it within about 18 hrs or so for peak usage if u live in a warm area this might only take 1 day to start if u live in a cold area it might take 3 days (like mine do in spring) same with usage if u live in a warm area u might want to use it within 8-12 hrs or so cause its gonna peak faster –also just a note to keep a eye out when gathering soil in the woods cause iv done this if u happen to pickup a fuzzy racoon turd and use it in your JMS it can smell a bit like poop– its always best to use JMS sooner then later it is super easy and cheep to make and u can just make more if u think u need to ……as for the current stuff u have u might dump it on your compost im sure it would be fine with heat and time all the bad juju that might have formed in there will die and be taken over by the good microbes but i would just dump it in the weeds away from my garden so i dident have to smell it and just let nature take care of it

u would chop small mix with carbon and i mean small the more surface area u can get the better could even run them through a grater if u had one and had the time or a food processor to get it small what ever u can …..my question to this would be par cooked or not i would think par cooked it would release more starches n sugars to be available for the IMOs and soften the flesh a bit but maybe it would be unneeded (wouldn’t hurt to do a lil test there see whats better) …i would think the real key here to using these as carbs is the size the smaller the better u would not want large chunks that can just rot in the IMOs but more like shredded so theres not only more availability of the starches n sugars to the microbes but also a less likely to rot situation IMO3 should not be “wet” a lil damp not dry cause water is life and tubers have a lot of water in them so does the plantain so that would be the thing i would take into consideration the most is controlling the moisture when using these as carb source

check out this vid for indoor IMO collecting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kpjd9Sv7cY   ….. IMOs should be stored with a breathable lid in a cool dark place KNF is intended to be shelf stable and IMOs dont really have a expiration date

Happy Experimenting

u do not need to roast oyster shells unless u r gathering them yourself then u would want to wash and bake or roast over a heat to clean and kill any bad juju b4 u put in vinegar

grass clipping r not the best thing for a FPJ they would be used more for a JLF …FPJ is more 1 plant type the microbes that live on that plant help in the breakdown process of the plant in the FPJ to get the micronation that we r looking for …grass clippings contain many different types of plants that make up a “lawn” when using multi plants in a FPJ the microbes compete as to who will break down the plant matter some win some lose and the full ferment process doesn’t kick off right and we r left with un desired results …as to the JLF we add microbes and water and a touch of salt to the clippings this adds more diversity to the pool a set of microbes that do break down everything in a large pool of water where they have plenty of room to move around this creates the environment to break down many things …FPJs are more about harvesting the hormones in a single plant and adding them as part of the complete solutions they r less of a fertilizer then as many think to where JLF is a fertilizer

how to FPJ from one of the Cho books i have

Collect the plant material. Growing tips that are easy to
snap off with your fingers are best. Do not use tough or
woody parts. Use only one type of plant at a time; do not
mix different plants in the same container.

Shake off dirt but do not wash the plant material. Tear
the plant into two- to four-inch pieces; do not cut it
with a knife. This is to increase the surface area and
promote osmotic pressure.
Measure the weight of the plant material collected.
Measure an equal weight of brown sugar. Use 1/3 to ½
of the brown sugar to toss with the plant material to
coat each piece with the sugar.
Layer the sugar-coated plant material with the
remaining brown sugar and compress each layer with
your fist in your fermentation container. Save some of
the brown sugar to put a ½ inch sugar cap and press
down. Jar should be ¾ full. After fermenting, the
material will be 2/3 of the jar.
Label the container with the date and type of plant.
Cover the container with breathable paper and tie
securely. Place the jar in a cool and shady area. Do
not move, open, or stir the ingredients during the
fermentation period. It will take about one week.

Happy Experimenting

if i remember i think drake was talking about maintenance solution and suz was also talking about it on that episode if so it is OHN,BRV,FPJ,WCAP ….LAB i would think might help also

the squash fruit not forming is probably lack of pollination u can hand pollinate the female flowers from the male flowers, the females will be the flowers with lil fruits behind them, u can just get a cotton swab or paint brush collect some of the pollen from the male and rub in into the center of a female flower as for the fungus gnats theres a few things u can do, most of the time they show up from overly wet soil and its the larva in the soil that needs to be controlled, u can allow the top couple inches to dry out for a few days with the lack of water the larva will die back and reduce the numbers can also add a think layer of mulch to the top of the soil this helps to prevent the newly hatched flys not be able to fly away and they die off also most larva breath through there skin so a dose of JWA in the soil will coat the larva in soap and help kill back the numbers IF u must use a store product to get rid of them mosquito bits is what iv seen lots of people on youtube using just search for the vids, i would do the mulch it has 2 main benefits for u with the squash it will help with the gnats but it will also help with soil born funguses like downy mildew and powdery mildew by preventing the soil from being splashed up onto the plants, to help with the current downy mildew remove the infected leaves then treat the plants with protectors (LAB) once a week to help prevent the spread